It is said that every bicycle weighs the same because the more valuable it is, the heavier the bike lock it needs. It’s a conundrum the Litelok aims to solve forever.
Weighing under 1 Kg, Litelok promises to be the lightest gold rated Sold Secure bike lock currently on the market.
As well as being stronger and lighter than the average lock, the design closes quickly and securely without the need for a key. A clever in-line feature allows two of the flexible locks to join together in series for extra length.
The locks cost £80 each from litelok.com
Protection for you and your bike
ETA Cycle Insurance never devalues your bike, doesn’t charge extra for things like third party liability, personal accident or friends and family cover, and has a sympathetic policy on storage in sheds and garages.
For 25 years we have been providing straightforward, affordable bicycle insurance and in 2015 we were voted Britain’s most ethical insurer.
Find out more about why we are different. Get an instant quote or call our friendly team on 0333 000 1234.
How to lock your bike
Are you locking your bicycle correctly when leaving it unattended in a public place? Just follow our handy guide to check that you are locking your bicycle to our requirements with the correct lock to ensure your claim is successful.
DO: Lock your bike, through the frame, to an immovable object
Make sure your Sold Secure approved lock passes through the frame of the bicycle and an immovable object.
DON’T: ‘Lock’ your bike in a way that makes it easy to steal
The example above may seem a little extreme, but we hear of cases where a bicycle was locked to short posts, ladders and lawnmowers.
DON’T: Lock your bicycle through the front wheel
We cannot stress enough how important it is to lock your bike through the frame. If you lock yours through the front wheel only, as illustrated above, you are making it relatively easy for a thief to detach the wheel, only to leave it and go whistling off into the sunset with the remainder of your bicycle.
DO: Use a secondary security cable in addition to your primary bike lock
DON’T: Use a secondary security cable as your primary bike lock
Unfortunately, it seems some people misunderstand the purpose of the secondary security cable that’s occasionally included with Sold Secure locks. Whilst these cables are a good idea when used as a secondary deterrent (see above), they are NOT designed to be used as your primary lock and have not been approved as such.
Chaos
Two ticks = stolen rear wheel! Plus the perfect set-up to use a car jack on the D-Lock! How can that be right?
Chris
Yes, as ‘Chaos’ said, the U-Lock needs to be filled to prevent a jack being inserted to burst the lock. The simplest way is to insert the lock sideways either side of the seat stays, though the rear wheel and lock it around the tubing of the Sheffield-stand. The U-lock i then full of bike and immovable object, (assuming the U-lock isn’t too long). The problem with U-locks is that they’re very restrictive about where one can lock the bike. Lamp-posts and traffic-lights have a diameter that’s normally too large, but chains and padlocks are very heavy. This Litelok looks interesting, but it’s unclear from the article how it actually locks, it also looks a bit too short.
TheCyclist
These Liteloks are brilliant. They are long enough to go round thick lamp posts, as well as thin enough to fit through narrow gaps. They can also be daisy chained with 2 or more together; perfect if you wish to lock 2 bikes together as well as against a lamp post. They can also be bought with the same, or diifferent. keys for all. They are by far the best and lightest Gold Secure locks in town.
Mike
I got my Litelok a few days ago. I’m disappointed by the follwing issues, ordered by priority:
1) The key does not work smoothly (neither of the 3 keys). Sometimes the key blocks halfway either while inserting or while turning it. This feels like “made in China” and not like a high qualitiy lock mechanism. That’s very annoying because I don’t want to lose my time while fiddling with the key.
2) It requires both hands and a bit muscle power when connecting both ends with each other. You can’t them simply stick together like an U-lock because you have to *bend* the Litelok strap which is quite rigid.
3) The coating is already dammaged after only a few usages. Some filaments come out and make loops. That’s ugly and may get entangled in sth.
4) It seems that the Litelok becomes easily dirty. There are already some visible dark (grease?) spots on the boa green Litelok.
5) The transport straps are ridiculous. It takes much more time to attach the Litelok with these straps than to snap in an U-lock into its plastic holder.
6) Litelok is bulkier than an U-lock.
Matt
Gold standard huh……..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D-On0DGcDlc